Sci-fi topic name aside, here’s my spin on protecting the Y-axis linear rails and ball screws from dust and chips.
I was impressed with the method of rabbeting the spoil board (bed) of the machine and adding a piece of acrylic, but acrylic is expensive and I would also need to either wrangle a large sheet of MDF through my job site table saw, or try to hand-hold a router against the same said MDF board.
Instead did these two things:
- Trimmed the spoil board to exactly 51 5/8" (1311 mm) wide, which is just enough to expose the top T-track slot of each Y-axis extrusion.
- 3D-printed deflector shields in PLA and mounted them with roll-in T-nuts and M4 flat-head screws. The shields extend beneath the 1/4" intentional gap under the X-axis gantry supports.
Why I like this setup:
- It lets me remove or replace the spoil board and shields independently.
- Keeps the full carving area, meaning there is no lost travel because the X-Axis doesn’t go this far left or right anyway.
- Lets me run my 1.25" surfacing bit edge-to-edge.
I might eventually make a taller version that meets the spoil board surface before tucking under the gantry plates — but for now, these work great, and any overhanging workpieces can just rest above them (unsupported, but fine).
3D Printing Notes
This is one of those times I had to tweak the Bambu Studio defaults:
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Standard supports instead of tree-style.
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Used PETG for support interface layer only since PLA and PETG don’t bond well.
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Fewer top/bottom layers to speed things up.
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Added glue stick to the printer bed because the parts are long, thin, and prone to lifting.
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Raised bed temp from 50 °C to 60 °C for better adhesion.
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Dried the PETG overnight in the AMS 2 Pro (probably overkill, but it worked).
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There are five separate 3D models (parts). The first three listed below can be flipped (mirrored) for use on either side of the machine, but the larger middle sections have unique designs because of how the half-lap joints and anchor holes are arranged.
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Print requirements and file details include:
- x2 → “DominatorPro_Y-Axis_DustShields_v02-LFRR.stl” = Left-FRONT and Right-REAR shield
- x2 → “DominatorPro_Y-Axis_DustShields_v02-LRRF.stl” = Left-REAR and Right-FRONT shield
- x2 → “DominatorPro_Y-Axis_DustShields_v02-MiddleSHORT.stl” = Shorter filler pieces (no supports needed!)
- x5 → “DominatorPro_Y-Axis_DustShields_v02-MiddleLEFT.stl” = Main filler sections for the LEFT side
- x5 → “DominatorPro_Y-Axis_DustShields_v02-MiddleRIGHT.stl” = Main filler sections for the RIGHT side
If I were to do it again, I might flip the materials — PETG for the main part and PLA as the support interface — since PETG tends to stick better to the build plate. But hey, I had plenty of PLA to burn through first.
Assembly Tips
- I used M4 × 12 mm as a minimum length, but 15 mm length will probably work as well.
- Flat-head screws look best, but socket heads will work fine.
- Don’t overtighten — these thin parts can warp and catch the Y-axis.
- Align the shields to the inside edge of the T-track, not the spoil board.
- Keep them flush with the front and rear Y-axis pate ends so future accessories can still use the threaded holes on the top of the plates.
Link to 3D models and FreeCAD drawing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yEUk2FSfz7Rz3x4uIDHMniOxi_6QpGYa/view?usp=sharing
