First, I just wanted to say thanks again for sharing these updates, especially with the photos. Your cable management looks great, and the whole setup is really well done!
While waiting for my Dominator, I decided to modernize my Onefinity by upgrading to the PwnCNC Masso controller. I’ve just finished going down a serious calibration rabbit hole. It wasn’t quite Mount Everest deep, but it felt close. It all started when I finished the install and tried carving the dog holes in my spoilboard. I reused my existing Vectric toolpaths from the old 1F Buildbotics controller (recalculated for Masso), but the holes came out undersized.
That kicked off a couple of weeks filled with calibration experiments and a number of orders from Amazon, eBay, and other suppliers. I think I’ve finally dialed things in to a point that satisfies my OCD.
With that said, I have a couple of questions:
Did your Masso come pre-configured for the Dominator?
If it did, then this next question might be for Daniel. But if not:
What values did you use for Distance and Pulses per Revolution, and how did you determine them? Did you work them out on paper, or did you measure actual machine movement?
I first tried using the same Distance/Rev values from the old 1F BB setup, but once I started measuring how far each axis actually traveled, the numbers resulted in movements that were pretty far off—about 1 to 3 mm. I then switched to using calculated values based on the pitch of the ball screws. That seemed to work for short distances under 200 mm, but there was noticeable drift at 400 mm, 600 mm, and further out.
Just to be clear, I fully understand that precision in the micron range (few thousandths) is usually overkill for wood. But I often carve small, detailed 3D models in wood and do fine engraving work in brass using a diamond drag bit or ball nose with a 0.020" radius. I also machine simple aluminum parts. So, it’s not just about chasing numbers for the sake of it. I really do need a decent level of precision from these machines, and was able to obtain 0.2 mm (0.008") when I needed it from the 1F.
Yes my dominator came pre-configured. That said I think it is important to still dial in calibration etc. for your specific machine and its tolerances. The masso controller makes this incredibly easy, as each axis has a “wizard” button for calibration of travel distance. You move an axis to a position where you can measure the traveled distance accurately, set zero in the wizard, then move the axis, then tell the wizard how far it actually moved and it calculates the changes needed and applies the new values. (I’m actually just about to make a post about this exact topic)
It really comes down to what mechanism/tool/gauge do you have that you can use for measurement, how accurate is that tool, what level of precision does it provide etc. I have found that a sharp pointed v bit (which can be turned to look down the edge of a single flute) and a nice metal 1000mm machinist ruler works really well. A high resolution digital caliper will work also, but unless you shelled out the money for a super long caliper I would hesitate to use that is it is too short of a measurement device. The best accuracy is from the longest distance you can have the axis travel, as any error is compounded. Similarly if you can get it very accurate at 900 or 1000mm, when you cut a circle or other shape smaller than that, the accuracy will be even tighter.
With how accurate you should be able to dial in the machine, cutting circles (or other shapes) is likely more about the rigidity of the gantries, the tendency of the bit to flex if climb vs conventional cutting, accuracy of the cutter diameter and if that actual true diameter is programmed into the tool library for your CAM software etc.
Per my above reply, this is a post about dialing in the accuracy of axis ‘distance moved’.
On the f1 screen each axis has a wizard button, which you press and go though the steps to calibrate the axis. Prior to doing that you should set up the machine and get things such that you can accurately measure the distance traveled. For me this was achieved by using a machinists ruler taped down along the axis of travel, placing a v bit in the spindle and moving the spindle fairly close to the surface of the ruler in z. I find it is easiest to start on a value other than zero so that you don’t have to rely on the accuracy of the cut-off end of the ruler, so in the example below, I started at 10mm.
I then went into the f1 screen, selected the x axis, tapped on wizard, and set zero.
Then moving to the f3 screen I moved the gantry over until I was lined up with the 910mm mark as best I could.
Then I went back to the f1 screen and into the wizard window, put in a value of 900 (as the distance measured. (This distance will likely be different +/- the distance displayed on the f3 screen, which is why we are doing a calibration)
Then chose complete calibration and save. Re-home the machine and check again.
Counter-bore holes for the m6 through bolts and washers that will secure these replaceable waste board panels to the full base sheet of mdf. They also will provide the necessary down force for the t-tracks so they don’t pull up from their tiny screws. Mdf sucks for screw holding and doing this will make the panels able to be swapped out endless times without tearing out screw holes. Next is surfacing the waste board.
Waste board affixed with through bolts and nuts, was able to run a surfacing pass and then check for how in plane the surface is. corner to corner the difference is only about a thou! I’ll take that any day! Very very very faint ridges in the rear of each horizontal pass means I need to tram out the top of the spindle a couple thousandths, but I don’t think it will take very much at all, you can see them, but barely feel them. time to break out the piece of float glass and tramming gauge. A little measuring and some stainless shim stock and it should be all set. Printing a temporary dust boot while I work on my pneumatic dust boot design. Had it running well on previous cnc, but now that the tight space constraints are gone, taking a fresh look at the design.
Tramming complete. Stainless shim stock is an incredible thing. Trial and error and a single piece of 0.003 and we are dialed in. The machine design made it really easy to tram,
Created a grid line program to run and give nice 1” references across the entire surface starting at 0,0 in the back right corner, should make it really easy to set work offsets and fixturing.
V12 boot is working great while I keep at the design process of my pneumatic dust boot that will allow for tool changes. Was really impressed, basically zero dust on the work surface. Part dust boot and part g700 dust processor that is piped to my whole shop. Really impressed with this dust collector and can highly recommend if anyone is in the market for one. The build quality is fantastic and the shipping was fast/ pristine condition when it arrived. I have to 3d printed a bracket to mount on the wall to take the load of the ducting, but scraps will do for now… ugly as it is, ha. I have the dust collector in another room adjacent to my full shop and then a 6” main trunk that runs through the shop with 4” branches that end in modified magring connections, which allow for slinky hoses to be easily connected when needed and act as blast gates, as I printed a version of the magring that is a solid plate, which closes off the ends.
Thank you so much for posting your updates… it is extremely helpful. You sharing these has allowed me to stay focused on trying to make production and shipping of Dominator machines my top priority. And with only 3 of us involved in this project… my attention there is vital in getting more efficient. By end of this month, we should be shipping faster and getting ahead of schedule!
Combination drag chain brace/supports and notched cable covers that let cables from rear steppers and prox sensors pass through all the way to the front while staying hidden.
I have done similar to Rizzo and utilized the bottom grove in the 80/20 and added 1/4” HDPE as a through for all the wiring. Laid out my Hardware and drilled some common holes. There is still a little cleanup to do, but believe it is very clean right now.
@Scott07 Looks fantastic!!! I’ve been really happy with that “hidden compartment” solution, super clean way to hide all the cables. I like the HDPE use! Nicely done! And I also like your XYZ holder and mpg mount
Apologies for the delay, I missed this post. The files will absolutely be made available. They are coming very very soon. A whole collection of files in fact. Cable chain supports, XYZ holder, MPG holder, really slick hold down clamps designed for nominal sized materials (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1”) and tool holders for use with the ATC (a version that work with the v12 boot as well as version that maximizes tool count and will work with a boot that can pneumatically “move out of the way” hint hint..
A few tweaks left, but getting really close to finishing my pneumatic dust boot that works with my tool holder design across the front. Wanted to share a little tease picture. Subtle aesthetic refinements still needed, but it is fully functional and looks really at home with this incredible dominator CNC.
Hey everyone — just chiming in after reading through your build thread and I gotta say, this is looking really solid. A couple tiny suggestions that might help as you move toward final tweaks-
Since your cable-management is near perfect, consider bundling the spindle/vfd power wires separately from the data/encoder wiring. A little extra segregation now can spare you odd noise or signal issues when you’re cutting tougher materials.
You mentioned getting ~0.001" X/Y surface flatness on the spoil board — impressive! Since you’re doing that already, it might be worth doing a quick “live” 45° diagonal cut and checking the corner trace for any chatter or deflection. If you spot subtle ringing, you’re right on the edge of tuning the gantry stiffness or spoil board mounting.
One last tip: before you lock down the machine, warm it up with a light carve for ~15-20 mins, then re-check your zero on the spoil board. Machines settle once vibration and heat come into play, and it’ll give you confidence that your datum is stable.
