What is the trick to getting the superthane ether tube into the gland nuts on top of the 2.2 kW water cooled motor? My fingers are not strong enough to squash the tube to fit into the gland nut.
I did not buy the Kool Connectors because I could not foresee having to disconnect the tubing from the spindle once I got it set up. Maybe I should have spent the extra $111.
I heated the end of the tube to the melting point with a heat gun and could not stuff the tube into the gland nut. I have ordered M8-1 threaded 8 mm diameter barb fittings and hose clamps on Amazon for $22 Canadian.
The 6 mm diameter bard fittings are too small to engage the tubing (5.5 actual OD). I ordered these by mistake for my flow indicator and could not get the tubing to seal to the barb fittings.
I personally cut my tubes at an angle and once I worked them in, I cut them flush and pulled them back slightly to be able to start the nuts. It’s a finger workout!
Cut the tubing on a 45° or steeper and you can pull it through the coupling, then cut it off square, pull it back through just enough and then thread on the coupling.
On a side note… this is why the Kool-Connectors are so popular.
Quick question…is there something that I can put on the silicone hoses to keep them from spinning with the nut when I tighten them on the spindle? I know, I know, I should’ve just bought the Kool Connectors. LOL
I don’t want to put something on them that will degrade the silicone and cause issues later on. TIA
I’m not aware of anything. The only thing I can think of is pre-spinning them the opposite direction a dozen or so rotations, so when you tighten it, it straightens out.
Might look a little janky but you could cut a 4" segment of hose, then use a couple of barbs and hose clamps or zip ties. Of course the 4" is arbitrary, and if you have a place that would suit better.
Adding more connectors will increase the likelihood of leaks, so be aware of that.